The rock climbing at Finale Ligure in Italy offers fantastic, diverse sports climbing of great quality and character, with over 2700 routes to choose from on white limestone rock. The rock climbing is situated in a succession of valleys in the hills behind Finale Ligure, and covers an area of 10 square kilometers. This huge deep green landscape can be harsh, wild, rough, and splendid and therefore not your “standard” sports climbing area but it is a real adventure.
The rock at Finale Ligure is a marine limestone and the variety of rock climbing is huge, from slabs, smooth and pocketed vertical walls, to steep imposing overhangs. The style of climbing is technical, usually with the crux near the end of the route. The routes are mainly single pitch, though there are some bolted routes up to 3 and 4 pitches long. However the exception is the Bric Pianarella crag, the so called “big wall”, where the routes are up to 250m long. The climbing at Finale consists of 130 different sectors/crags and over 2700 routes with grades range from F3a to F8c+. However most of the crags have routes with grades between F6a and F7a.
Further along the coast is Capo Noli, which offers climbing some great sea cliff rock climbing that has a totally difference character to that of Finale. This area is also a very popular place for deep water soloing.
It’s worth noting too that just a stone’s throw away from the center of Finale and Le Terrace Campsite, is the heartland for rock climbers ,with stunning rock faces ,cliffs ideal for the all Climbers and sheer walls for “free climbing” enthusiasts . Finale has at least 21 main crags and thousands of climbs, with difficulties graded from beginner to 5.14 YDS (8c French/Italian). It has both single pitch and multi-pitch climbs, most well bolted for lead climbing with quickdraws, but some set up for traditional climbing protected by gear placements. Many of the areas are in pleasant forested hillsides, and others offer views of the sea below.
There are too many choices to list, but here are a few recommendations:
Long routes: “PARETONE” is an excellent choice: One route has the appropriate name “never ending way”. It is a challenging 1300 ft route that is lightly bolted with a few pitons, has some trees for slings, and otherwise requires gear placements for protection. It faces west, and heat can be a problem in summer unless one starts early and climbs rapidly. There are other multi-pitch routes that are as long as 800 feet.
Shorter climbs: The great majority of routes at most areas are well-bolted, require only quickdraws, and either have a single pitch (the majority) or have just two or three pitches.
Seasons: Climbing is possible year-round, depending on the direction of the sun to the cliff. Most of the areas face east or west since they are at the side of plateaus that rise north from the sea, so spring and autumn are the ideal times to visit.
Variety: The number and variety of climbs makes it almost impossible to exhaust the possibilities, even in many long visits, and new areas and climbs are being developed all the time.
Access to the cliffs: Ease of approach is generally ideal, some areas being adjacent to the roads, and others just a matter of walking 5 or 10 minutes in pleasant forests on paths made by climbers and boars. For the adventurous there are a few cliffs whose access requires some orienteering skills.
The rock: The rock is beautiful limestone, white and solid everywhere. It ranges from slabs to smooth and pocketed vertical walls, to steep imposing overhangs.
Bad weather climbing: There are enough overhanging areas and caves to allow climbing in the rain.
Where to climb … The macro-areas, i.e. the places with the highest concentration of crags, are:- Valley Rian Cornei: more than 40 sectors- Rock of Perti: 19 sectors- Monte Cucco: 10 sectors- Boragni: 10 sectorsMoreover, for some years now, it is also possible to practice Boulder on boulders in four areas described within the guide and on the website www.finalebythomas.com Some must-see examples for the beauty of its routes and the unique environment are the cliffs:Cave; dell’EderaAn open-air cave and cylindrical climbable on all sides where the routes, from 6a to 8a +, have one is the best. Bric ScimarcoA vertical wall from the unforgettable rock where the routes, from 5c to 7c, are mainly of vertical fingers Strapatente Cave A cliff reeds, with routes from 6c to 8b, where there is also a spectacular roof. NolitudineOf great interest for foreign tourists, Nolitudine is part of the three sectors that is an amazing rock above the sea with difficulty from 4b to 6c. In Finale Ligure you can find specialty shops and for those wishing to try this sport, on request you can also rent equipment.For more information, www.finalebythomas.com or directly from us.
Homeland of the rock climbers since 40 years. More than 150 crags within a 10 Km2 territory with different sun expositions that allows the rock climbing over all the year…